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A Casa Dos Retratos (The House Of The Portraits) is an abandoned manor house in Portugal that has stood for over four hundred years. The picturesque residence sits on the edges of a small village in the countryside. For centuries it was home to a noble Portuguese family, with links to royalty on the other side of the Atlantic.
I explored this location during my 2025 Portugal Road Trip, arriving shortly before sunset. I enjoyed a few hours photographing the old house with its traditional wooden ceilings and exquisite hand-carved furniture.
The manor has a long history, tracing back over four hundred years to the 17th century. Constructed as a residence for a wealthy Portuguese family, the estate expanded over the centuries as generations made their home here. Inside the house are papers and portraits suggesting ties to Portuguese nobility. The family also appears to have had links to Pedro I, the emperor of Brazil.
In the 19th century, the residence underwent significant renovation. A kitchen fireplace bears the inscribed date of 1837, marking a period of structural modification. Additionally, much of the fine furnishings, oil portraits, and grand piano appear to date to this era.
It appears the house remained inhabited well into the twentieth century before it was left uninhabited. The most recent appliances, such as the TV and rotary phone, are from the 1980s. What would cause the family to abandon their ancestral home? Most likely, the costs of upkeep and repair for this ageing and now decaying property were too high for even their deep pockets to afford.
The house incorporates traditional Portuguese architectural features typical of 17th and 18th century manor houses. Multi-sided vaulted timber ceilings, known as teto de masseira, cover several of the primary rooms. At the centre of each is the family’s heraldic coat of arms. The best examples are in the grand dining hall, master bedroom and living room. Other rooms display varied ceiling designs, including coffered wood framing with painted panels in the library.
Dark wood pediment doors connect the main reception spaces, while classic turned-spindle furniture, known as cama de bilros, features in the bedrooms and dining room. This iconic Portuguese furniture style originated in the 17th century but remained popular in grand houses through the 18th and 19th centuries.
The once-grand house stands derelict and decaying. Decades of neglect have taken their toll. Termites have feasted unchecked; now the structural roof timbers and floor supports are collapsing in several rooms. Through the failing roof, the elements have entered, causing plaster to crack and fall from the walls. The house that has stood for nearly half a century now seems destined to be lost.
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