Onsen Hotel K, Japan

Onsen Hotel K is a large hotel and bath house (onsen) in Japan. This 1940s hotel towers high above the river. It stands tall perched on a rocky cliff. This looming concrete building has a somewhat depressing and drab appearance. It does not feel in keeping with the picturesque river and forested slopes which surround it. No trip to Japan would be complete without a trip to a haikyo (ruined) onsen, of course.

Hot springs were first tapped in this area in the Meiji Era. The spring water here is alkaline-rich. The spa waters reputedly offer relief to those suffering from rheumatism. Numerous hotels, including Onsen Hotel K, sprung up in rapid succession to exploit this natural resource. The hotels cluster on the steep slopes either side of the winding river which flows through the valley below. During the town’s heyday over 3 million tourists visited every year, and would fill the various resorts (and hotel owners bulging pockets!).

Onsen Hotel K – Decline and Closure

Finally, the economic bubble burst. The tightly-packed and grotesque concrete monolith hotels perhaps were partly to blame. Probably their vulgar appearance undoubtedly destroyed the beauty of this once scenic area. Tourism patterns shifted, and visitor numbers began to decline in the 1990s. To add insult to injury, the local financial industry collapsed and banks closed. This once popular hot spring town was rapidly spiralling into decline. Many of the hotels and resorts began to close, as they were unable to pay bills and pay staff as more and more rooms sat empty.

The Onsen Hotel K was one of the casualties and closed its doors in the late 1990s. This visually unappealing monstrosity appears to be one of the older hotels. It is easy to see why this was one of the businesses to fail, with its dated drab appearance. This hotel was not the only one to fall into disuse, there are others who have joined over the years.

There are many traditional Japanese rooms. Musty and damp tatami mats hide rotten floorboards, treacherous underfoot and prone to collapse. There are traditional Japanese chairs (zaisu) alongside kotatsu tables and futons.

The large bathhouse is the main attraction here. Washbasins lay scattered on the floor around it. The once-grand large glass window now has many shattered panes. Outside there is a large swimming pool, now filled with vegetation.

The Legend of the River-Boy

The bathhouse features a curious mascot; the kawatarō (River-Boy). The River-Boy is a Japanese folklore demon (yōkai). River-Boy is often depicted as an amphibious, green and slimy human-like being. This creature’s hands and feet are webbed feet and he has a turtle-like shell on his back. The size of a child, this demon lives in rivers and ponds. A dish-like depression on its head holds water, and this is said to be the life force of the demon. If this water is spilled he becomes weakened or he may even die.

This mythological creature was certainly malevolent. Legends indicate he had a preclusion for luring people into the water or forcefully pulling them in. River-boy would then feast on the organs of his freshly drowned victims. This allegory, no doubt, was a good cautionary tale to keep children away from waterways. Children would stay away from the rivers, for fear the River-Boy will drag them to their deaths.