Old Hammam, Lebanon

This Old Hamman was built around the middle of the 14th century and is said to be the oldest and best-preserved hammam in Lebanon. It fell out of use in the 1970s after the Lebanese Civil War broke out. Unlike other Lebanese hammams, this example survived the civil war without much damage. It is in good shape, although the façade has been completely obscured by the souk (market) shopfronts that have surrounded it.

The historical context of Hammam in Lebanese culture

The hammam, or Turkish bath, has been an integral part of Middle Eastern society for centuries. Islamic communities adopted the hammam in the seventh and eighth centuries, adapting it from the bathhouses of the ancient Romans and Byzantines.

They swiftly became an important part of social and religious life. As such, they were located near mosques and medinas (markets). Firstly, they offer visitors a place to cleanse before going into the mosque to pray. In times before indoor plumbing, hammams were also important for public health and hygiene. In mediaeval Islamic society, the hammam was more than just a place to get clean; it was also a place for relaxation, socialising, and sharing news.

It was typical of these bath houses to feature three distinct areas: a hot room, a cold room, and a warm room. Firstly, bathers would acclimatise in the warm room. After that, they would go to the hot room to sweat out impurities and exfoliate their skin. Finally, the bathers would move to the cold room to cool themselves down. It was common for hammams to have massage parlours and other services.

In the early 20th century, when indoor plumbing became more common, hammams began to go out of favour across the Middle East and North Africa. However, hammams have recently seen a revival in popularity as more and more individuals rediscover the positive effects of their therapeutic routines.

Round and round I go….

Finding the Old Hamman proved an unexpected side quest during my Lebanon Road Trip 2023. Arriving at the location pin I had researched, I could see nothing but shop stalls in the souk. I threaded my way through the warren-like passages of the market, enjoying both the immersive experience (as well as the welcome shade!). I made a convoluted loop and arrived back where I began, feeling no closer to finding my prize.